原贴：Varro 瓦罗实在没空翻译，拜托放假之同学，sicut cervus ad fontem Aer: Light blue. Albens rosa:
Pale gray, or possibly pale pink. Albus: White. Amethystinus (purpura
amethystina): Amethyst purple Amygdala: Almond, light tan. Aureus: Golden
yellow. Caesicius: Sky blue. Callainus: Green-turquoise. Calthulus: Marigold
yellow. Carinus: Walnut brown, dark brown with red overtones. Cerasinus: Cherry
red. Cereus: Wax yellow, brownish yellow, perhaps identical to cerinus.
Cerinus: Brownish yellow. Coccinus, coccineus (coccum): Scarlet. Conchyliatus
(conchyliatum): Pale lavender. Coracinus: Deep black. Crocotulus: Reddish
orange. Croceus: Saffron yellow, red-orange or yellow with orange overtones,
perhaps identical to crocotulus. Cumatilis: Sea blue. Erythraeus: A natural
reddish hue of wool. Ferrugineus: A somewhat purplish red. Flammeus: Reddish
orange. Fuscus: Brown with a reddish tinge. Galbinus: Yellow-green. Glandes:
Chestnut brown. Heliotropium: Reddish blue-red. Hyacinthinus: Reddish violet.
Hysginus (hysginum): Scarlet. Ianthinus: Violet. (Indicum): Indigo blue.
Luteus: Yellow-red. Malva: Mauve. Molocinus: Mauve. Niger: Black, or very dark
brown. Ostrinus (ostrum): Reddish purple. That the color had a red tinge is
indicated by descriptions of the hue as rubens, red; sanguineus, bloody; and
puniceus, scarlet. Paphiae myrti: Dark green. Prasinus: Bluish green, pea
green. Pullus: Gray, according to Ovid; also black or a very deep brown-black,
the color of mourning. Puniceus, phoenicius, poenicius: Scarlet. (Purpura):
Purple. The four major shades were ater, dark; lividus, pale; ruber, red; and
violaceus, blue. Purpureus laconicus: Dark rose purple. Purpureus Tyrius
(purpura dibapha Tyria): Light rose purple. Ruber Tarentinus: Reddish violet.
Russus, russeus, russatus: Bright red. Thalassinus: Purple of undetermined hue.
Threicia grus: Gray. Tyrianthinus: Violet purple. Undae: Sea blue? darker blue?
Venetus: Dark blue. Violaceus: Violet. Viola serotina: Blue-red. Violeus:
Violet. Viridis: Green. GENERAL TERMS: Modern terms appear in bold type.
Akinakes: A short Persian sword. Amictorium: Jewish word for a cloak. Amictus
(Latin, amicire, "to wrap"): Generally, a covering. Amiculum: A mantle, worn by
prostitutes according to Isidore (Origines 19.25.5). Amphimallium: A cloak
which was shaggy on both sides. Anakolos: Jewish word for an undertunic.
Anaxarides: Iranian trousers of somewhat full cut. Ankle shoe: A shoe covering
the foot up to the ankle joint. See boot. Ankle strap: A strap fastening around
the ankle with a tie, knot, or buckle. Auratus: Woven with gold thread.
Babylonica hypodemata: Elegant Babylonian sandals made of excellent quality
leather (see the Edict of Diocletian 9.7). They were considered luxurious and
worn by both men and women. Baldric: A belt worn diagonally from shoulder to
hip to support a sword. Balteus: A term borrowed by modern scholars from
Quintilian, Institutio oratoria 11.3.140, where it is used to describe the
appearance of the rolled cloth of the toga which extended diagonally from the
right armpit to the left shoulder, and which thus resembled a sword belt. The
term was not used in antiquity. Bardocucullus (Celtic loan word): A very thick,
heavy cucullus which retained much of the natural grease of wool to make itself
waterproof. See cucullus. Baucides (from Greek, baukos, "prudish, affected"?):
Expensive saffron-colored footwear especially popular among courtesans
(Athenaeus, Epitome 13.23.568). Some had cork soles to increase the wearer's
height. Bombycina: Silk. Boot: A kind of footwear extending above the ankle
joint. Bracae (braccae): Loose or baggy trousers tied by a cord at the ankle
and worn by European barbarians. Brocade: A fabric woven with a raised overall
pattern. Brodequin: Stout, laced ankle boot or sock. Bulla: The boy's rounded,
convex locket enclosing an amulet, often phallic in nature. The bulla was
adopted by the Romans from the Etruscans. It could be gold, silver, bronze, or
even leather. Buskin: A soft, high-laced leather boot which apparently
developed from the cothurnus worn by tragic actors. See cothurni. Butted seam:
A seam joining two edges of the leather of uppers, usually at the back of the
heel or the toe front, with no lapping of the leather. Calautica: A woman's
headdress. According to Servius (In Aeneadem 9.613), it was a woman's mitra.
See mitra. Calcamen: Roman shoe or boot that reached to the midcalf.
Calceamentum: Any kind of shoe, and footwear in general. It also designated a
Roman shoe or boot that reached to the knee. Calceare: To put on shoes.
Calceatus: Wearing shoes. Calcei muliebres (Latin, mulier, "woman"): Shoes for
women; a term identical to calceoli. Calcei patricii: Boots for Roman nobles
which had closed uppers and a long tongue (Edict of Diocletian 9.7). They were
hound to the leg with four thongs (corrigiae), two on each side attached
between the sole and the uppers, front and back. The thongs tied around the
upper ankle and the middle of the leg. These calcei were perhaps distinguished
from the senatorial boot (calcei senatorii) by the distinctive red color of the
patrician shoe (mulleus). The senatorial boot seems to have remained black.
Calcei repandi: Pointed-toed shoes, curving upward at the toe, that were worn
by Etruscans in the sixth century B.C. These, in theory, were the model for the
later Roman senatorial calcei with lacing and straps. Cicero says that only
statues of Juno Sospita continued to use the pointed-toe calcei repandi, but a
rounded-toe version may have been in use as late as the third century A.D.
Calcei senatorii: Boots for Roman senators, which were perhaps distinguished by
their black color from the patrician boot. When members of the equestrian class
hegan to enter the ranks of the senators, patricians might then have been
distinguished by the color of their boots. The style of the senatorial boot
seems to have been identical to that of the calceus senatorius; in the Edict of
Diocletian, however, the calcei patricii cost 150 sesterces, while the calcei
senatorii cost only 100 sesterces, which indicates some substantial difference.
Calceoli (diminutive of calcei): Small shoes, half boots, usually for women.
Calceus (pl. calcei): Shoes that came up over the anklej the term comes from
the Latin calx, "heel." This shoe was the major contribution of the Romans to
footwear, since the Greeks relied mostly on varieties of sandals or boots.
Calcei were formal shoes worn with the toga outside the house, while sandals
were worn with the tunic inside the house. Slaves were not allowed to wear
calcei. Bonfante-Warren ("Roman Costume," 605) adds, "Though the word was used
for high closed shoes in general, cf. calceamentum, in contrast to soleae or
sandals, it meant especially the official Roman shoe worn with the toga (toga
et calcei). A special type, mulleus, was believed to have been the shoe of the
kings of Rome, specifically the Etruscan kings.... The Roman senatorial calcei,
derived from Etruscan shoes . . . were high-topped, laced with black corrigiae
. . . and fastened with a buckle called a luna." Calicae: Shoes, differentiated
in the Edict of Diocletian (9.9) as shoes for senators and for equites (calicae
equestres). Caligae: Army boots with hobnailed soles and cutwork straps. These
straps formed a complex network on the uppers; there were also two or more
straps tying at the upper ankle. Caligae are also referred to in the Edict of
Diocletian (9.5-6) as "boots for mule drivers or farm workers, first quality,
without hobnails." Caligae muliebres: Boots for women, similar to those worn by
soldiers, but without hobnails. Caligae muliebres cost only 60 sesterces in the
Edict, but those for soldiers, without nails, cost 100 sesterces. Camisia
(Gallic loan word): An undertunic. Campagi imperiales: A shoe, similar to that
of the soldiers, worn by emperors in the late empire (e.g., Maximinus and
Gallienus) and by Byzantine emperors. Campagus (pl. campagi): Soldiers' shoes,
also called campagi militares. In the edict of Diocletian (9.14), these cost 75
denarii. Capite velato: The action of pulling the toga over the head for
certain types of sacrificing. Carbasina: Heavy, durable linen-cotton cloth.
Carbasus (Hebrew loan word): Cotton. Carbasus lina: Linen-cotton mixture.
Carbatina (pl. carbatinae): One-piece shoes with soles and uppers cut from a
single piece of leather. The edges were cut into loops through which a lacing
pulled the uppers together. Centonarius: Patchworker, dealer of patchwork.
Chain mail: Flexible armor made of interlocked metal rings. Chaps: A
contraction of chaparreras, referring to leather overalls which are usually
open at the back and worn by Mexican and American horsemen for protection
against thorns and brush. Chiridota tunica (Greek, cheir, "hand"): A
long-sleeved tunic, also called the tunica manicata (Latin, manus, "hand").
Chiton: A Greek dress made of two rectangular lengths of material which were
sewn along the sides up to the arms. The rectangles were pinned together at
intervals along the top with a space left for the head and neck. Josephus also
uses the word to denote the long-sleeved woman's dress worn by unmarried Jewish
women and the sleeved tunic worn by Jewish men. Chitoniskos: A short,
long-sleeved woman's dress worn by unmarried Jewish women, according to
Josephus. Chlamys: A long cloak reaching the ankles and worn by the emperor and
empress as part of their civil costume in the sixth century A.D. Chlanis: A
man's mantle. The word is a derivative of chlamys. Chukker boot (Hindi): An
ankle-high shoe, laced through two pairs of eyelets and often made of soft
leather. Cilicium: Cloak of Cilician goats' hair (Varro, De re rustica
2.11.12). Cinctus Cabinus: The "Gabinian" girding, a way of tucking up the toga
while the wearer performs a ritual. The wearer threw one end of the toga over
his shoulder and then knotted the garment around his waist. Cingulum: A helt.
The bride's cingulum was in the form of a cord of woolen fibers twisted
together. Clavus: The woven, vertical strips of reddish purple on the tunic
extending from each shoulder to the hem. Clogs: Wooden-soled shoes which had
broad leather straps over the insteps. The toes were left bare. Colobium
(Greek, kolobion, "curtailed"): Jewish term for a linen tunic. Confarretio: The
oldest form of marriage among the patricians. It was a binding religious
ceremony rather than a civil contract. Corolla: The small bridal wreath of
herbs, flowers, and sacred branches (verbenae), worn by the bride under her
veil. Corona: Generally, a wreath or crown. Specifically, the highest
distinction awarded for valor in war, as in corona civica, a wreath of oak
leaves for saving a citizen's life in battle, or corona muralis, a golden
circle in the form of a city wall for the soldier who first climbed the wall of
an enemy's camp. See crown. Corrigia (pl. corrigiae): Straps on the calcei, two
on each side. These were wrapped around the ankle, and each pair was tied in
front with a knot. The corrigiae may have been formed by two continuous, long
straps which were inserted between the inner sole and the outer sole of the
shoe. Cothurni (possibly a Lydian loan word; see Herodotus 1.155): The tragic
actor's shoes or boots which had high platform soles to increase his height and
stage presence. See buskin. Couched embroidery: A method of embroidering in
which heavy threads, laid out on the material, are stitched down at intervals
with another thread. Crepidae (Greek krepis, krepides): Greek shoes which
covered more of the foot than did the simple thonged soleae. The crepidae
sometimes had straps but most often sported high up on the foot or ankle a
complex network of cutwork designs, on the order of modern huaraches. Crown: A
circlet for the head. In the third century A.D). the radiate crown of the sun
god was commonly worn by Roman emperors. Religious crowns worn by priests
frequently had images of deities engraved on them. See corona. Cucullus: Hooded
cape or cloak. See bardocucullus. Cuirass: Defensive armor for the torso,
consisting of a breastplate and hack plate (dorsal plate) and worn over a
cloth, leather, or padded vest. Originally they were made from Icather, as the
etymology of cuirass (corium) indicates, but Roman generals came to wear iron
breastplates which were often molded to replicate musculature; these are also
called "classical" or "anatomical" cuirasses. The lower edge of the cuirass was
curved and had one or more rows of round or long tongue-shaped lappets
(pteryges). The Roman imperial or "Hellenistic" style of cuirass, which
appeared in the late first century B.C., developed from the Greek cavalry
cuirass. It was also modeled to represent the musculature of its wearer but had
a single row of short leather straps attached to its lower edge. These short
straps are distinct from the longer leather straps attached to the lower edge
of the underlying vest. Cuirasses of Roman generals, and especially of Roman
emperors, also were decorated with embossed historical, allegorical, or
mythological figures and symbols of victories. Cyclas (Greek, "circular"): A
woman's mantle with a border running all around it. The mantle could be
luxurious. Propertius (4.7.40) mentions a gilded border, while Juvenal (6.259)
states that the mantle was made of a light (gauzy?) material. Delamination: The
separation of the leather into grain and flesh layers when leather lies
underground or in a watery environment. Dextrarum iunctio: Joining of the right
hands, which marks the union in Roman marriage. Diadem (Greek, "to bind
around"): Originally a simple band or fillet tied at the back of the head and
visible in coin portraits of Alexander the Great, where it symbolized absolute
monarchy. It was rarely worn by Roman emperors until the time of Constantine
the Great, who wore one decorated with jewels and laurel leaves. The ties in
the back of the emperor's diadem were usually adorned with jewels. In the
fourth century, a large central jewel adorned the diadem above the forehead,
giving it a more massive appearance. Dorsalium: A curtain which hangs behind
the deceased in mortuary sculpture. Embades: Any enclosed boots which had to be
"put on" with a foot stepping into them (Greek embainein, "to step into" ). The
long leather tongue came down over the top in front of the lacing, and the
boots could have been lined with felt or fur. Dionysus is depicted wearing
these, and so they came to be used in tragic drama. The woman's version,
Sikyonia embas (from the island Sikyon), was a fancy shoe made of white felt.
Endromides: High boots worn by rumlers or hunters. 1 hey were split vertically
up the inside middle to make them easier to put on. Ephod: The jeweled
breastplate worn by the Jewish high priest (Exodus 28:6). Its shape and the
kind and number of its jewels, like those of the other garments of the high
priest, had cosmological symbolic meaning. Epikarsion: A type of shirt worn in
Palestine under a tunic. Epomydes: Shoulder straps which tie the front and back
plates of a cuirass together. Essen: The long robe worn by the Jewish high
priest. Eyelets: Holes for lacing. Some were bound or reinforced. Fasciae:
Bands wrapped around the legs. They were appropriately worn by men only in ill
health. Feminalia (femur, "thigh"): Short, tight-fitting pants covering the
thighs to the knees, worn in cold weather. Fibula: A pin or brooch fastening a
person's mantle, or chlamys of the emperor, at the shoulder. Beginning in the
third century A.D., the emperor wore a more elaborate jeweled brooch to signify
his status over military tribunes, who began to be awarded jeweled brooches.
Under Constantine the Great, the emperor's jeweled brooch became conspicuously
larger, and by the reigns of his three sons, three pendant jewels hanging from
the brooch were consistently part of the imperial insignia. Flammeum: The
bride's rectangular, enveloping veil, dyed with yellow luteum pigment. Though
the word is cognate with the Latin flamma ("flame"), literary sources make
clear that the veil was a deep yellow, like the flame of a candle. Flesh: In
tanners' terminology, the inner surface of the leather, made from the inner
surface of the hide. Forma: The wooden last on which a leather shoe was made.
Galerus: The helmet-shaped cap made of animal skin worn by Roman priests. The
higher-ranking priests' galerus had a spike (apex) attached to the top;
lower-ranking priests' had a knob. Gallicae: Informal sandals worn with tunics
and lacerna, but not with the toga. There were various kinds of gallicae: for
men, gallicae biriles; for runners, gallicae cursuriae; and for farm workers,
gallicae rusticanae. Gausapa (loan word, possibly from a Balkan language): A
felt waterproof cloak. Gemara: The rabbinic commentary on and interpretation of
the Mishnah. Gladius: The Roman short sword. The gladius Hispaniensis, its
progenitor, had an eagle-headed pommel on its hilt. Grain: The outer surface of
the leather, made from the hide of the animal. The hair, fur, or wool forms a
characteristic pattern on the grain side, which enables identification of the
kind of hide used in a shoe. Halacha: Jewish law as set forth in the Mishnah
and Torah. Haluq: A Jewish garment identical to a tunic. Hasta caelibaris: The
spear used to part the bride's hair in the seni crines style. Himation: A
rectangular mantle worn by either men or women. It was essentially identical to
the pallium and palla. Hobnails: Iron nails nailed through the soles of shoes
or boots to keep the footwear together and to prevent the soles from wearing
out. The nails were placed all around the edge of the sole and in various
designs on the surface of the sole. Holosericus (Greek, holos, "wholly"): Made
of pure silk. See serica. Hosae: Hose, boots, or gaiters; in general, leg
coverings. Impilia: Liners of wool or felt for boots or sandals. Also, a Jewish
word for felt slippers. 'Imrah: Hebrew term for the clavus or purple stripe of
a tunic. Indusium: An undertunic. Infula: Woolen fillet or ribbon, either white
or red, worn around the head by priests and priestesses, especially Vestals,
and also by sacrificial victims and suppliants. Insignia: Distinguishing marks
of authority, office, or honor, such as the imperial jeweled brooch with three
hanging pendants and the pendilia hanging from the diadem. Institae: The
shoulder straps of the stola. Interrasile: Elaborate openwork settings for
medallions and coins hung on chains, bracelets, or necklaces. Jambières: A
modern French term designating the leggings worn by Palmyrene men over their
trousers (anaxarides) as part of their riding costume. Palmyrene men also wore
such leggings, made of fine material, indoors. Lacerna: A cloak or mantle worn
by both men and women, originally over the tunic and toga, but then just over
the tunic. Lacing: Thin lengths of leather or fabric inserted through loops or
eyelets to fasten shoes to the foot. Lacinia: A term possibly used to designate
the hem of a toga, which was placed against the lower left leg between the knee
and ankles (see Suetonius, Caligula 35.3). It may, however, merely designate
the lower border of any garment. Laena: The heavy rounded mantle, Etruscan in
origin, worn by the augurs and flamines during sacrifices. It was shaped like a
toga but was draped ovcr both shoulders and hung in a curve, front and back,
and was fastened with a pin in back . Lamé: An ornamental material in which
metallic threads are interwoven with silk, wool, linen, or cotton. Lamellar
armor: A type of armor composed of small, overlapping plates (lamellae) laced
together. Lana: Wool Lappet: A small flap or loosely hanging decoration of a
garment. Last: A wooden block (forma) shaped like a foot on which a shoe was
made. The Romans also used an iron block on which to hammer the hobnails, since
the points had to be turned or flattened. Latchet shoe: A late Roman style of a
low shoe with a strap or straps across the instep. Limbus: A purple band sewn
onto the edge of a woman's mantle or the hem of a woman's garment (Nonius M541,
Servius, In Aeneadem 2.616, 4.137). Limes: The frontier area of a province
where troops were stationed. Lingula: The tongue of a shoe. Linteo (pl.
Iinteones): Linen weaver and seller. Lodex: A specialty weave of Laodicea, made
of wool or flax. Loramentum: A fastener, thong, or strap for tying the shoe.
Luna: A crescent-shaped decoration tied to the top of the senatorial calceus as
a buckle. Lunula: An amuletic necklace worn by girls and women. The amulet was
shaped like the crescent moon (luna). Luteum soccum: The yellow bridal slipper,
dyed the same color as the bridal veil (flammeum) and the hairnet (reticulum).
Mafortium: A short palla worn by women. Margarita: The pearl. Mater familias:
The wife of a pater familias, a man n ) longer subject to his father's power.
As such he was able to have children under his own paternal power (patria
potestas). Matrona: A female Roman citizen who was married to a Roman citizen.
Melanteria: Copper-vitriol solution containing iron, used to blacken leather.
Metaxa (loan word of uncertain origin): Silk. Mishnah: The collection of Jewish
oral laws compiled by Rabbi Judah the Prince ca. A.D. 200. Mitra: An Asiatic
headdress resembling a turban and worn by the Trojans in the Aeneid. Romans
considered it effeminate dress for a man. See calautica. Modius: A flat-topped
cylindrical hat worn by Palmyrene priests. The term applied to this type of hat
is a modern one: it is owing to the hat's resemblance to the Roman corn measure
or bushel basket called the modius. Mordant: A substance used in dyeing to fix
the coloring matter. Mulleus: A shoe dyed red, named after the mullet fish
(mullus), which is red in color. The calceus patricius probably differed from
the calceus senatorius or equestris by being made of leather dyed red. Nimbus:
A halo around the emperor's head in coin portraits, mdicating his divinity.
Nodus Herculaneus (Herculeus): The ritual knot of the bride's belt, symbolizing
the virility of Hercules, who fathered seventy children. Nudus: When used in a
public setting, "bare-chested." The priests called Luperci, for example, were
hare-chested above their loincloths of goatskin. Used in a home setting, nudus
could mean "wearing underpants," "completely naked . " Paenula: A short, hooded
cloak of heavy wool, leather, or fur. Palla: The rectangular mantle of a woman.
Pallium: A large rectangular mantle worn by non-Romans and especially by
Greeks. Paludamentum: The long mantle worn by a Roman army officer or the
emperor in military garb. Patagium: A gold band. A tunic with a neckline
decorated by a patagium was called a tunica patagiata. Pellytra: A Greek word
denoting leather "socks" worn to protect the foot against chafing and cold.
Pendilia: Chains, beads, gold wires, or pearls to which pearls or other
precious stones were attached like pendants. Beginning in the early fifth
century, they hung down from the sides of the emperor's diadem and were part of
the imperial insignia. The emperor's pendilia were short and fell behind his
ears, while the empress' pendilia were long and hung in front of her ears. The
pendilia are not to be confused with the jeweled ties of the imperial diadem,
which hung behind the head. Peplos: A dress worn by Greek women. The upper
third of the material was folded over to form an overblouse. The folded edges
of the material were pinned together along the upper arm. Perizoma: Short pants
worn by men under the tunic. Pero (pl. perones): A soft leather shoe covering
the entire foot and ankle. Originally pero was a generic term for "shoe," but
J. Pollini has used it to denote the type of shoe worn by figures on the Ara
Pacis. Phrygian cap: See pilleus. Pilleus: A felt or soft wool cap which rises
to a forward curving point at its top and was worn by Phrygians and Dacians.
Piloi: The name derives from the Greek word for felt (pilos) and denotes felt
socks used with leather sandals to protect the flesh of the foot from chafing
and to keep the foot warm. The piloi were commonly worn with the embas or
endromis. Pissyrgos: Pitch worker, a Greek slang word for "shoemaker," who
frequently used pitch to blacken shoes. Plumatilis: Pilelike down. Plumeus:
Downy, having a pile similar to down. Polymita: A many-threaded damask made in
Alexandria. Praetexta: The woven reddish purple border on a garment. Pteryges:
Rounded or scalloped leather lappets hanging from the bottom of the Roman,
"classical" style of cuirass. Quarters: The four sides of the uppers of shoes.
Radiate: A depiction of the head of an emperor from which the sun's rays burst
forth as a sign of his divinity. Ralla: A gauzy, open weave. Rawhide: The hide
or skin of an animal scraped on the flesh side and made pliable by flexing, not
by tanning, leather. Reticulum: Hairnet. Traditionally brides wove their own
from wool dyed with luteum. Ricinium (recinium): The square mantle worn by
women during mourning. It had a woven reddish purple border (praetexta) and is
likely to have been dark colored like the man's toga pulla. Rugae: The folds
("wrinkles") of the skirt of the stola. Sagum (Celtic loan word): The soldier's
cloak of rough wool. It could be short or midleg length. Sagum sumere meant to
exchange the toga for the military cloak, that is, to prepare for war.
Sandalia: Sandals consisting of a sole and strap or thong to tie the sole to
the foot. Sculponeae: See clogs. Selvage: The edge of a woven garment finished
off to prevent raveling. Seni crines: The ritual hairstyle of brides and
Vestals which was made by dividing the hair into six braids. Serica: Silk. The
Chinese were called the Seres. Shaatnez: The Jewish prohibition against the
mixing of fibers contained in Deuteronomy 22:11. Shirr: To gather material by
drawing it up along two or more parallel lines of stitching or encased cords.
Sifre Deuteronomy: A commentary on Deuteronomy. Sikyonia embas: See embades.
Sinus: An overfold which extended down from the diagonal roll of the cloth of
the toga which ran from beneath the right arm to the left shoulder. It extended
down across the torso like an apron. The sinus first became popular during the
reign of Augustus and survived into the fourth century A.D. Its length varied
according to fashion, although it generally extended to the region of the right
knee. When the banded toga became popular during the third and fourth
centuries, its sinus became very long, extending to the ankle, and its lower
portion was generally carried over the left arm. Snood: A clothlike covering
for the hair of women in the fifth and sixth centuries. Sometimes the empress
wore it under an elaborate jeweled diadem. Soccus: A low, light shoe worn by
Greeks and, among the Romans, by women, effeminate men, and actors. The Edict
of Diocletian lists four colors of socci: purple, Phoenecian purple, white, and
gilded (9.17-23). Solea: A sandal fastened to the sole, (solum, "ground") by
leather straps. Greeks wore sandals outdoors, but the Romans wore them mostly
indoors; outdoors Roman men wore calcei. Sandals were worn to dinner parties,
where they were removed before reclining on the couches; "to ask for one's
sandals" (poscere soleas) was an idiom for "to Icave the party." Solo alto: A
phrase describing the high platform shoe of the actor. See buskin, cothurni.
Sordes: Dirtied clothing worn as a symbol of sorrow, as, for instance, when a
family member or friend was accused of a crlme. Spissa: A closely woven fabric.
Stephane: A Hellenistic crownlike headpiece worn by goddesses and Hellenistic
and Roman women. It was in the form of a high, triangular-shaped headpiece,
sometimes made of gold and cmbossed, and rose to a point above the forehead.
Stola: The dress worn by married Roman women. It was suspended from the
shoulders by straps (institae) and was long enough to cover the feet. As this
dress, distinctive in form, symbolized its owner's chastity, Josephus
anachronistically describes King Jeroboam's wife as wearing it. Josephus also
used the Greek word "stola" ("garment") to refer to the robes of Jewish
priests. Strophium: A type of bra in the form of a band, made of linen or
cotton, worn by womcn around their breasts for support. Subligaculum: A
loincloth. Subligar: A loincloth. Subucula: A linen undertunic worn by both
sexes. Sudarium: Jewish term denoting a scarf worn around the neck .
Suffibulum: The veil worn by the Vestals, especially while sacrificing. It was
short and white with a purple border. Supparum: A linen undertunic worn by
girls. Synthesis: A costume for banquets and parties. Its exact form is
uncertain, but the word means "a combination." Tablion: A rectangle of
elaborately woven decorated cloth on the emperor's chlamys. Tallit: Jewish word
for "mantle." Talmid hakham: The tallit or mantle of a Jewish scholar or
distinguished person. It was longer than the average tallit and completely
covered the tunic. Talmud: The collection of Jewish laws and teachings,
comprising the Mishnah and the Gemara. There were two Talmuds. The Jerusalem
Talmud was completed in the mid-fifth century A.D., and the Babylonian Talmud
in the mid-sixth century A.D.). Tanning: Conversion of hides into leather by
steeping them in a solution of tannin, an acid solution often brewed out of oak
bark or gall. Tapestry: A fabric in which colored threads are woven by hand to
produce a design or picture. Taurina: An oxhide sandal for women which could be
made single- or double-soled, according to the Edict of Diocletian (9.16).
Tiara (Eastern loan word): A high turban, worn in the Aeneid by the Trojan
king. Palmyrene gods also wore a tiara, or turban, which was often decorated
with horns. A plain tiara was worn by Armenians depicted on Roman coinage.
Tibiale (tibia, "shinbone"): Bandage or wrapping for the Iegs below the knees,
worn in cold weather. Toga: A rounded, woolen garment, adapted from the
semicircular Etruscan mantle. It originally was worn without an undergarment by
all Romans. From the second century B.C. on, it was generally worn over a tunic
by adult males. It was the garment worn by the Roman man during business,
governmental, and religious affairs. The toga was draped by placing an edge on
the left side of the body which extended from the lower legs (see lacinia) up
over the shoulder, then around the back and beneath the right arm. The loose
end of cloth which remained was then thrown over the left shoulder. The toga
extended to the lower legs on all sides. The toga was also worn by a wife
divorced for adultery, to signify her dishonorable status. Toga candida: A toga
specially whitened by bleaching or chalking, which was worn by candidates for a
magistracy. Toga contabulata: A term often used by modern scholars to designate
the banded toga which developed in the later second century A.D. and which
remained popular throughout the third and fourth centuries. The term
contabulata is derived from Apuleius, Metamorphoses 11.3, where it is used to
describe the complex folds of Isis' palla. Toga exigua: A term borrowed from
Horace, Epistles 1.19.13, and used by modern scholars to describe the short
toga worn until the mid-first century B.C. Toga muliebris: A term used by
Cicero to denote the toga worn by a prostitute. Toga praetexta: A toga with a
reddish purple band woven along its lower edge. It was worn by freeborn
children of both sexes and by consuls and priests when presiding at official
functions. Upon puberty boys assumed the toga virilis; upon marriage girls
assumed the stola and the palla. Toga pulla: A dark-colored toga worn during
mourning. Toga pura: The toga in the natural, off-white color of wool. Toga
purpurea: A toga woven of purple-dyed wool worn in the early triumphs and by
the emperor. Toga rasa: A toga with a closely clipped, smooth pile. Togati:
Clothed in a toga. Toga virilis: The plain white toga which boys assumed upon
maturity. It was identical to the toga pura. Torque: A massive metal, circular
necklace, often made of gold. Sometimes it was fashioned of metal wires twisted
around each other. A favorite form of jewelry among the Gauls, it was also worn
by Persians, and Etruscans and Romans. Tosefta: A "supplement" to the Mishnah.
Tractate: A section or chapter of the Talmud, such as the Tractate Shabbat.
Trochades: Greek sandals worn by runners. Tunic: The Roman garment worn by men
and children under the toga and by women under the stola. It was a sleeved
garment, unlike the Greek archaic chiton Both chiton and tunic are derived from
the Phoenician word for the prototype of this garment; possibly tunica came
into Latin indirectly through Etruscan. Tunica pulla: A dark-colored (gray or
black) tunic worn by Verres. Its color made it inappropriate for a Roman
governor to wear. Tunica recta: The straight tunic, worn for initiation
ceremonies, such as marriage for girls and the coming of age for boys. It was
woven on a warp-weighted loom on which the weft was beaten upward. Recta
("straight") presumably indicates that the garment was woven as a single,
straight piece of material. Tunica talaris (Latin, talus, "ankle"): An
ankle-length tunic. According to Cicero (Second Verrine 2.5.13.31), it was an
effeminate garment for a Roman man to wear. Tutulus: Traditionally the ritual
form of a woman's hairstyle, it was adoped from the Etruscan hairstyle worn in
the late sixth and early fifth centuries B.C. The hair was sectioned and piled
high on the head and fastened with vittae. Tzitzit: The twisted tasscls
attached to the four corncrs of the Jewish mantle as ordained in Deuteronomy
22:12. Udo (pl., udones): A woolen sock made from African goat's hair. Umbo: A
term used to designate the bunching of cloth pulled from the portion draped
over the left side of the body over the sinus. It apparently helped to hold the
garment in place; see Macrobius, Saturnalia 3.13.4. Tertullian (De pallio 5)
used the term to designate the folded band of the banded toga of the third
century A.D.). Upper: The portion of the shoe which covers all hut the sole of
the foot. Vamp: The portion of the shoe which covers the instep and toes.
Velum: A woman's veil. Vestem mutare: To change one's clothing to mourning
clothing; also, generally, to change one's clothing. Vestiarius: Dealer in
ready-made clothing. Vestis: The generic word for "clothing." Vestis Coa:
Garment made of wild Coan silk. Vincula (vincla): Straps or shoe strings. In
poetry, the term was used as a metaphor for sandal or shoe. Vitta: A woolen
band used in women's hairstyles and in decorating altars, victims, graves, and
so on. Those used by priests were colored reddish purple (purpurea). Welt: In
shoemaking, a strip of leather placed between the outsole of a shoe and the
edges of the insole and the upper, through which these parts are stitched.
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